Had the same issue on my son's 208 2012-13 screen dead, with no sound. The first time it happened I unplugged the fuse (18 I think) and it reset, the second time it happened nothing. I've looked into this a little deeper and found something that may be helpful to others. On the back of the main radio unit, there is a small contact tab that connects to the bottom edge of the heatsink using spring pressure. If this isn't touching the heatsink then the unit doesn't work. I can only assume this is designed this way because the heatsink expands and contracts so the connection needs to be flexible.
View attachment 1412
I used a piece of bent plastic to provide a little more pressure for the tab like this.
View attachment 1413
The unit now works so far! You do need to disassemble the head unit to get to this but that's actually fairly easy to do. I use this Youtube tutorial to help.
Make sure you use a plastic tool for popping up the bottom of the screen surround trim. If you use a screwdriver there is a risk that you crack the screen in the bottom right and you will also mark the facia as well. Once you have the first trim piece off, the rest is to remove the 2 Torx screws from the top of the screen and 4 from the plastic frame behind then remove the 2 that hold the radio unit. Removing the connectors is fiddly but apply pressure in the right place and they pull out. The radio unit has a main connector on the back and two or three smaller connectors on the right side. The main connector has a lever at the bottom press in the tab insight the connector and pull the lever up, this will disconnect the multi-plug from the radio. Turn the radio unit round and on the bottom left you will see the tab as shown in the image. I used a piece of packaging plastic cut into a strip and bent to provide the flexible pressure needed. I wouldn't propose jamming something in as it may not flex when the unit gets hot in the future. CAUTION - I do not know exactly why this piece is there. It may be that it is designed to expand and disconnect if the unit gets too hot. It may be just a simple way of grounding the heatsink in the assembly between the two boards so as a consequence I don't know the long term impact of the fix. If you choose to do the same fix this will be at your own risk. It may be that the plastic doesn't hold up over too many heat cycles but at the moment it seems to work. To me it does match the connector approach used on the fan though so I think it's just easy to assemble it this may when manufacturing the unit. If someone has a unit schematic I would very much like to investigate this further.
.......Shame I lost 2 fuses into the depths of teh area trying this out......anyone know how to remove the glovebox? 
