My regime was: Foam and rinse with a Karcher ( I used dishwashing liquid as the foamer so that the old wax would be removed. Usually I use an Autoglym or Meguiar's gold class wash) ; Wash (using. Autoglym, with two bucket method; Dry using water blade, chamois, drying towel; clay; deep clean paint using Autoglym HiDef Cleanser; Seal using 2 coats of Fireglaze Plus Polish (let first coat cure for a day before applying the 2nd coat, then finally apply one coat of Autoglym HiDef wax.It is winter here now and I have been driving around for a week in bad weather. After 7 days, the car still get comments on how good it looks.
Here are some interior shots after I useda good pH balanced cleaner (gentle on leather) and then followed by Swissvax Leather Milk (to nourish) and then topped with SwissvaxElephant Fat - Museum FormulaLeather Preserver.
The interior panels I cleaned/protected with Sonax Dashboard Cleaner-Matte Finish.
LOL Actually, this is a very cleverly set up website. You only have to upload any photo once. When you want to reuse that photo in another post, you don't have to upload again, just repoint to the originally cached image. Also I was a photographer and film maker for most of my life so it would be unnatural for me not to illustrate my posts. Edited by: esterhazy
Looks good, although I have had nothing but bother with water blades leaving marks at the sides of the blade and marring on soft paint. I now use an open ended hose to remove most of the water and reduce drying time OR use a rinse aid like Demon Shine - which works very well.
The use of water blades are controversial in discussions on car detailing. The Autoglym one I use is very soft and possibly my scheme water is softer (less calcium) than the stuff that comes out of your hose. I have to agree that the method that uses the least amount of 'touching' will be the safest.I have heard it said that you have more chance of scratching your paintwork during the drying stage then in the washing stage (at least if you use a high lubricity soap, quality wash mitt and a two bucket method that removes any grit that the mitt picks up).
I have been thinking of changing to using a large high quality MF drying towel and a spray wax while the car is still wet. That would seem to have the 'lightest' touch while drying your car.
If I had a 1960 Porsche or Italian super car (all of which have single stage, very soft paint) I would never use a blade but go for multiple MF drying towels and a spray detailer/wax (Note AmmoNYC and Chemical Guys, in the USA sell good products for this purpose - suggest you have a look at this You-tube video;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3a6VPPNC0oM&feature=c4-overview&list=UUYsa8SOy3TkoxI5D17s1u-wpaying particular attention to the Hydrate stage).