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Discussion Starter #1
Common fault.Easiest way to access the blower fan and resistor pack is by removing the glovebox-

Open glovebox & remove fuse box cover, undo the two Torx screws at the top.
Close glovebox, remove the three plastic rivets by pulling the centre pins (By hand), these attach the carpet to the frame that supports the glovebox.
Undo the two Torx screws under where the carpet was secured.
The glovebox is now held in place by spring clips, gentle but firmly pull to release the glovebox assy.
It has the computer plug and airbag switch attached, but leaving them attached allows access.

The resistor pack can be seen just below the fan, it has 5 wires to it and the fan has 2.

The blower fan is removed by pulling back the tab at 12 o clock and rotating the fan anticlockwise then it is a case of carefully bringing it out through the glovebox apature.

I checked the resistor pack connector and found it to be good, no signs of overheating etc.
The fan connector looked good too.

I tried the fan on a 12 volt power supply and it worked fine.

I slaved in a resistor pack I got off ebay and the fan still wouldn't run.

Unfortunately having no wiring diagrams meant diagnostics with a multimeter gave unclear results.

I slaved in a switch assy. also form ebay and still no fan.
The controls are awkward to remove and refit but only a plastic lever is required to pop off the trim over the switch assy. and a Torx screwdriver to undo the two screws.

I cleaned up the fan connector terminals and plug with some IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) and it all came good.

I suspect with the heavy current going through the connector + the moist air in that area that a bit of carbon had built up. The inside of the blower fan showed signs of corrosion on the exposed metal parts.

Hope this helps.

Andy (62 plate 208 1.4 HDi Active)
 

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HY ANDY Could I use wd40 to clean this switch . I need get this dash off 1st I've tried changing the resistor thing 25 quid still not working and checked every fuse in car and all ok so will try your fix this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sorry for the late reply, the switch in the control panel is built-in and you won't be able to get near it.I used Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the connectors.
There is no replaceable fuse for the fan, I believe a non replaceable fuse is inside the resistor pack.
My fan has given up again!
 

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I got to the circuit board so might change it . I sprayed into a little hole the selector fits in and no difference. Not checked motor yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Found the issue this time!In the passenger footwell there is a small panel at the front end of the centre console just in front of the heater outlet. It is held on with a single screw and clip.
Behind this there is a small inline connector which has a Grey wire and a green/yellow wire in one side and a red wire and green/yellow out the other side. I found this plug melted inside causing a high resistance. This plug is the 12V supply and Earth to the resistor pack.
I cut both wires either side and spliced the wires back together and all is now well with the fan.
 

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Nice one andy i had to book my car into auto electrician in end and they came up with the same repaira melted connector!!! looks like common fault on these cars. well at least we sorted it for other 208 owners
 

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jim b

Found the issue this time!In the passenger footwell there is a small panel at the front end of the centre console just in front of the heater outlet. It is held on with a single screw and clip.
Behind this there is a small inline connector which has a Grey wire and a green/yellow wire in one side and a red wire and green/yellow out the other side. I found this plug melted inside causing a high resistance. This plug is the 12V supply and Earth to the resistor pack.
I cut both wires either side and spliced the wires back together and all is now well with the fan.
hi. I have an intermittent fault with the heater blower with no obvious pattern I have located the inline connector block as you described but theres no signs of any heat or burning on the outside how do you remove the block to investigate further
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It is an inline connector and should just pull apart, can't remember if it has one of those tab type locks on it.
If you fan is playing up intermittently I might be starting to build up carbon inside the connector.

Andy
 

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Hi guys,

I’m having a similar issue. Assuming it’s the inline connector; Andy can you give more info on how you cut the connector ends and spliced the respective wires (ie what wire to what).

Cheers,

Jamie
 

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208 Internal Heater Problem

Hi, I'm having a similar problem:

Heater kept cutting in and out intermittently, would work fine for days then not, then come on again but now doesn't work at all so I'm suspecting resistor but:

Heater switch is switched on to full so I believe I should be getting no resistance to the motor?

Have run a seperate 12v and earth from a battery off the car to the motor and this kicks in straight away, so I'm assuming the motor is ok?

Should I be getting a 12v supply to the small plug under the centre console with the ignition switched on?

Are there any fuses that run the heater system?

Thanks for any advice in advance

Darren
 

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Hi, same problem too, everything i tested is working, i replaced the resistor thing etc. but no air...
should i get 12v on the green/yellow and gray plug? because i checked ground but 0v on the gray
 

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Great thread. Found the same issue in 2015 Pug 208. Green/yellow and Grey wire one side of plug. Green/Yellow and Red on the other side of the plug. Plug had melted and couldn't be separated. Cut the wires either side and joined them with high amperage connectors. I have rerouted the wires so they are away from the heater matrix as im sure the heat from this can't be good for the connector either.
 

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Thanks to all especially andyboy1970 for tips on removing fan. 2015 208 fan stopped working, followed advice above, checked connector all ok, removed fan and resistor block looked ok. Bought some electrical contact cleaner from Halfords (£3.99), sprayed fan all over and let it dry for an hour, refitted worked fine. Thanks, fiddly job but worth it, phoned dealer wanted £115 to tell me fan needed changing!
 

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Hi Guys,
New here. I am also getting this problem. Heating hadn't worked for 4 days. Started car this morning and heater came on. Got to work turned off the ignition and turned back on and not heater again.
Reading through the thread, it seems as though there could be a few things that's causing the problem.

I'm no mechanic but I am going to attempt to replace the resistor. Is pulling the glovebox out and cleaning the fan etc.. has easy as it sounds for someone who has next to no knowledge of what I'll be doing?
 

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Sorry for the late reply, the switch in the control panel is built-in and you won't be able to get near it.I used Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the connectors.
There is no replaceable fuse for the fan, I believe a non replaceable fuse is inside the resistor pack.
My fan has given up again!
 

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Hi I had the same problem with the fan not working had to put it into the garage after trying new resistor pack etc etc it turned out to be a bad wire connection I first ran a wire from the battery straight on to the fan and it worked so was at a loss what was wrong garage took old connection off and replaced them with new ones said it was coz the heater was on feet settings all the time and the heat had melted the connection cost £25
 

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Found the issue this time!In the passenger footwell there is a small panel at the front end of the centre console just in front of the heater outlet. It is held on with a single screw and clip.
Behind this there is a small inline connector which has a Grey wire and a green/yellow wire in one side and a red wire and green/yellow out the other side. I found this plug melted inside causing a high resistance. This plug is the 12V supply and Earth to the resistor pack.
I cut both wires either side and spliced the wires back together and all is now well with the fan.
do you have a photo of this area and what i'm looking for, thanks
 
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